After leaving Caesarea, we continued south to Jaffa where we heard Mass at St. Perer the Apostle Church. This is where St. Peter baptized the first Gentile, Cornelius, into the Christian community. It is also where Peter restored Tabitha to life and lived with Simon, the tanner. We could date the time when non-Jews were accepted as Christians to this city on the Mediterranean.
There is a lot of contrast in Jaffa -- in one area, it is a clean modern city with high rise buildings. The boulevards are lined with palm trees -- there are parks, canals, tulips blooming everywhere. The name 'Jaffa' means "beautiful" in the Hebrew language, and it is a beautiful city. It is a port city, and has always been important as a station on the Via Maris. The founder of Jaffa was thought to be Japhet, the son of Noah. Another name for Jaffa is Joppa.
The Old City contrasts with its crowded, boxed-in, and ugly apartment buildings. Laundry is hanging out, and garbage and rubble line the streets. Historically, the old city can be traced back to 1468 B.C. when the Egyptian Pharoah Thutmose III conquered the city.
After dinner in Jaffa, we traveled onward to Tel Aviv and the Ben Gurion Airport to catch our flights home. Tel Aviv was established in 1909 by a group of Jewish families. It is considered Israel's most cosmopolitan Mediterranean city, with elegant shops and restaurants.
Our plane departed after 10 PM with no problems with security. I even slept on the way home, and only had a little bit of 'jet-lag.' This was a life-changing pilgrimage, and I thank God that I was allowed to be a part of it.
Saturday, April 30, 2011
Friday, April 29, 2011
On the Sea Coast
As I mentioned before, water is pumped from the Sea of Galilee to the desert for irrigation of farm land. Two-thirds of Israel is desert -- hard rock desert, not sand. Archeological digs are everywhere in the Holy Land.
Galilee, though, is fertile, and the vegetation is lovely in this area. Acacia trees are small, compact, with yellow flowers. Everywhere one sees red poppies and yellow wildflowers blooming in the spring. White, fuschia, and orange bouganvillas grow in large trees. Hibiscus are grown here as hedges, and ground covers included blooming cyclamens.
Olive trees are a mainstay in all of Israel. They need little care after planting, just occasional pruning. Anyone can plant a tree and let it grow. Harvesting the olives fills all one's needs; the olives are nutritious, the oil is used for fuel, cooking , and beauty products. The olive trees we saw in the Garden of Gethsamane were present during the time of Jesus. The bigger around the trunk, the older the tree. They must live forever, and are never cut down by the Israelites. It takes five years for a tree to bear olives, however.
Following lunch, we traveled along the coast to Caesarea. This is a restored Crusader city which was originally constructed by Herod in 20 BC and named for Augustus Caesar. This city is where Peter converted the first pagan to Christianity, a man named Cornelius. Paul started his journey to Tarsus from this location after being imprisoned here for a brief time. We stopped at the Mediterranean Sea and the remains of a Roman aqueduct, where we ate ice cream from a vendor and waded in the beautiful sea.
Galilee, though, is fertile, and the vegetation is lovely in this area. Acacia trees are small, compact, with yellow flowers. Everywhere one sees red poppies and yellow wildflowers blooming in the spring. White, fuschia, and orange bouganvillas grow in large trees. Hibiscus are grown here as hedges, and ground covers included blooming cyclamens.
Olive trees are a mainstay in all of Israel. They need little care after planting, just occasional pruning. Anyone can plant a tree and let it grow. Harvesting the olives fills all one's needs; the olives are nutritious, the oil is used for fuel, cooking , and beauty products. The olive trees we saw in the Garden of Gethsamane were present during the time of Jesus. The bigger around the trunk, the older the tree. They must live forever, and are never cut down by the Israelites. It takes five years for a tree to bear olives, however.
Following lunch, we traveled along the coast to Caesarea. This is a restored Crusader city which was originally constructed by Herod in 20 BC and named for Augustus Caesar. This city is where Peter converted the first pagan to Christianity, a man named Cornelius. Paul started his journey to Tarsus from this location after being imprisoned here for a brief time. We stopped at the Mediterranean Sea and the remains of a Roman aqueduct, where we ate ice cream from a vendor and waded in the beautiful sea.
Thursday, April 28, 2011
In Haifa
Saturday, March 26, was our last day in the Holy Land, but it was packed with more sights and information! We left the beautiful Mountain of Beatitudes and the hostel around 8:30 AM and went to Haifa in the Mt. Carmel range. The Prophet Elijhah was said to live in this area, and his cave is inside the Carmelite Stella Maris Church on the edge of the Mediterranean Sea. It is the largest Carmelite Monastery of the order. Stella Maris means "Star of the Sea." A lighthouse is nearby watching over the busy harbor. Haifa is a modern city with high-tech industries, many museums and two universities. It includes a main refinery built by the British after World War I.
From the monastery, it is 20 km to the top of Mt. Carmel. Another peak of the mount is called 'the place of burning,' venerated where Elijah challenged the false prophets of Baal. Jezebel and Ahab had caused the Jews to worship idols, so Elijah called down fire from heaven to light a holocaust when the 450 other prophets couldn't. He then slit their throats (Kings 1:18)!
Elijah is the forerunner of John the Baptist, who was the forerunner of Jesus. He is mentioned three times in the New Testament. He is also the one who raised someone from the dead. He didn't die, but was raised into Heaven. He walked forty days in the desert and heard God's voice in the small whispering sound in the mountain! He was the most important prophet in the Old Testament,and bears an unique relationship with Jesus. However, Jesus didn't kill anyone!
From the sea and from the highway, we saw the Bahai Temple set in cascading terraces of formal gardens. This is an Arabic monument with 180 steps to the temple!
We walked to St. Joseph's Church for Mass, and then went back to the monastery for lunch. We were served by Carmelite nuns!
From the monastery, it is 20 km to the top of Mt. Carmel. Another peak of the mount is called 'the place of burning,' venerated where Elijah challenged the false prophets of Baal. Jezebel and Ahab had caused the Jews to worship idols, so Elijah called down fire from heaven to light a holocaust when the 450 other prophets couldn't. He then slit their throats (Kings 1:18)!
Elijah is the forerunner of John the Baptist, who was the forerunner of Jesus. He is mentioned three times in the New Testament. He is also the one who raised someone from the dead. He didn't die, but was raised into Heaven. He walked forty days in the desert and heard God's voice in the small whispering sound in the mountain! He was the most important prophet in the Old Testament,and bears an unique relationship with Jesus. However, Jesus didn't kill anyone!
From the sea and from the highway, we saw the Bahai Temple set in cascading terraces of formal gardens. This is an Arabic monument with 180 steps to the temple!
We walked to St. Joseph's Church for Mass, and then went back to the monastery for lunch. We were served by Carmelite nuns!
Wednesday, April 27, 2011
Mt. Tabor
On Friday, the day before we left, we went up to Mount Tabor. At 1850 ft. elevation, it is the highest point in Israel, and the place of the Transfiguration. Tabor is thought to be the most majestic of mountains. Rocks where Our Lord stood can be seen under glass on the top level of the church. We looked over the parapet here, and Bassem showed us the plain known as the Via Maris, or 'route by the sea." This was the trading route taken by Egyptians, Mesopotamians, etc. through the mountains of Galilee. The area was between the mountains of Galilee, Syria, and Judea. The route started next to the Mediterranean Sea. Excavations in this area have shown it to be at least 8000 years old!
We had to take taxis up the mountain, since the tour buses were not equipped for such a steep climb. As we arrived, we saw lots of ruins from previous times. The mountain itself is rounded, and can be seen from any place in eastern Galilee.
Early Christians built a church here in the 5th century and Crusaders built a monastery here which was later destroyed in the 12th century. Franciscans rebuilt the church in the 17th century. We went to Mass in the Basilica of the Transfiguration which includes some stunning mosaics of the Transfiguration. Three chapels inside the church commemorate Peter's suggestion of making three tabernacles for Elijah, Jesus, and Moses. Peter was always the impetuous one -- the one who had to 'take charge.' What a heart-stopping moment this must have been for the apostles.
We had to take taxis up the mountain, since the tour buses were not equipped for such a steep climb. As we arrived, we saw lots of ruins from previous times. The mountain itself is rounded, and can be seen from any place in eastern Galilee.
Early Christians built a church here in the 5th century and Crusaders built a monastery here which was later destroyed in the 12th century. Franciscans rebuilt the church in the 17th century. We went to Mass in the Basilica of the Transfiguration which includes some stunning mosaics of the Transfiguration. Three chapels inside the church commemorate Peter's suggestion of making three tabernacles for Elijah, Jesus, and Moses. Peter was always the impetuous one -- the one who had to 'take charge.' What a heart-stopping moment this must have been for the apostles.
Tuesday, April 26, 2011
Marriage in the time of Jesus
In keeping with our visit to Cana, our guide told us some interesting things about marriage in the time of Jesus. Greeks evidently had a low opinion of women. They had to stay at home, cook, clean, and take care of the children. They were not allowed to show their face or talk to men in public. However, men had concubines and could get a divorce easily (but not the women). Prostitution was common, and young, educated women were often the mistresses of important men, often writing their public speeches.
Roman men were heads of the entire family. Their daughters could make no decisions. They killed infant girls if they didn't want them. The custom was to hold thumbs either up or down when they were born. When the Romans conquered the Greeks, they levied taxes on the unmarried.
With Jews, it was shameful if a grown man didn't marry (another mark against Jesus!). Divorces were common since the priests had relaxed the observance of the Twelve Commandments. In one conservative school, a man could divorce his wife if she had no child or had sexual relations with another. In the liberal school, men could divorce wives for ANY reason -- her looks, her clothing, her cooking, her voice. This is one of the reasons why Jesus came down so strict on the institution of marriage.
Roman men were heads of the entire family. Their daughters could make no decisions. They killed infant girls if they didn't want them. The custom was to hold thumbs either up or down when they were born. When the Romans conquered the Greeks, they levied taxes on the unmarried.
With Jews, it was shameful if a grown man didn't marry (another mark against Jesus!). Divorces were common since the priests had relaxed the observance of the Twelve Commandments. In one conservative school, a man could divorce his wife if she had no child or had sexual relations with another. In the liberal school, men could divorce wives for ANY reason -- her looks, her clothing, her cooking, her voice. This is one of the reasons why Jesus came down so strict on the institution of marriage.
Monday, April 25, 2011
Notes about Cana and Jewish sects
In Cana, we renewed our marriage vows in the Church of the Miracle, where Jesus' first miracle was believed to have taken place. Two churches are here; one is Greek Orthodox, and the other was built by Franciscans in 1879 on top of a 4th century church built by Jewish Christians. Displayed inside the church is a huge stone jar -- a replica of the stone jars used for purification.
In John's gospel, he uses signs that point elsewhere. The water and wine mixed at the Eucharistic celebration; the loss of Adam's rib that made him vulnerable, but completed by Eve; Christ's side being lanced and blood and water poured out; the mingling of wine and water at the marriage feast. Christ is the bridegroom and the Church is His bride. Cana therefore prefigures Calvary. The six stone jars used for purification contained twenty gallons each of water. The number '7' signifies completion; the number '6' is incomplete, waiting for another event.
Further information from our local guide, Bassem, included the types of Jews who had lived in Israel at the time of Jesus. There were four sects: 1. Pharisees -- the term means to 'separate.'
They kept themselves away from sinners, Romans, Gentiles, etc. They were strict on the law and the customs. Hasidic Jews are their descendants. 2. Sadducees -- These were in the line of priests in charge of the temple. Money changing in the temple afforded them income, and were the aristocrats of society. They might be the Conservative Jews today. 3. Essenes - they were ascetics who lived apart from the rest, and thought themselves preparing the way for a new kingdom. It is thought by scholars that Jesus was an Essene. 4. Zealots - the militant Jews who were looking for someone to free them from Roman rule. Judas was probably a Zealot.
Nowadays, Bassem told us that the Jews come from four different groups: 1. the Sephardic Jews who come from Spain and have dark skin, eyes, and hair, 2. the Ashkenazi come from Eastern Europe and Germany -- they are the intellectual ones, 3. Russian Jews who number 1.4 million and are mostly in the medical fields, and 4. Ethiopian Jews who number about 350,000. We saw a number of black-skinned Jews while in the Holy Land.
In John's gospel, he uses signs that point elsewhere. The water and wine mixed at the Eucharistic celebration; the loss of Adam's rib that made him vulnerable, but completed by Eve; Christ's side being lanced and blood and water poured out; the mingling of wine and water at the marriage feast. Christ is the bridegroom and the Church is His bride. Cana therefore prefigures Calvary. The six stone jars used for purification contained twenty gallons each of water. The number '7' signifies completion; the number '6' is incomplete, waiting for another event.
Further information from our local guide, Bassem, included the types of Jews who had lived in Israel at the time of Jesus. There were four sects: 1. Pharisees -- the term means to 'separate.'
They kept themselves away from sinners, Romans, Gentiles, etc. They were strict on the law and the customs. Hasidic Jews are their descendants. 2. Sadducees -- These were in the line of priests in charge of the temple. Money changing in the temple afforded them income, and were the aristocrats of society. They might be the Conservative Jews today. 3. Essenes - they were ascetics who lived apart from the rest, and thought themselves preparing the way for a new kingdom. It is thought by scholars that Jesus was an Essene. 4. Zealots - the militant Jews who were looking for someone to free them from Roman rule. Judas was probably a Zealot.
Nowadays, Bassem told us that the Jews come from four different groups: 1. the Sephardic Jews who come from Spain and have dark skin, eyes, and hair, 2. the Ashkenazi come from Eastern Europe and Germany -- they are the intellectual ones, 3. Russian Jews who number 1.4 million and are mostly in the medical fields, and 4. Ethiopian Jews who number about 350,000. We saw a number of black-skinned Jews while in the Holy Land.
Sunday, April 24, 2011
Notes about the Galileean area
The Galilee area is about 1500 square miles and is very fertile due to the electrical and irrigation systems. Towns are usually set against a hill, with the crops laid out in level fields in the valleys. Rocks are scattered profusely around the hills, resembling sheep, and the sheep in turn, resemble the rocks! Sheep are very stupid animals -- trusting and vunerable; no wonder they have to be shepherded.
On Friday, we traveled to Cana, the site of Jesus' first miracle. Driving through the town, I noticed that all the dwellings were three-storied, box-like, with flat roofs and no carports or garages, built very close to each other. The people who live here must all be apartment dwellers; there is no landscaping, flowers, or grass here. Twelve million people live in Galilee.
Our local guide gave us a little history about the area. Judea is surrounded by desert, but Galilee is surrounded by other nations: Lebanon, Syria, Jordan, and Egypt. Back in Jesus' time, the towns that seemed to be hotbeds of rebellion were controlled by garrisons of Roman soldiers. Loyal towns like Capernaum had Senate control and only a contingent of 50-60 soldiers led by a centurion.
Galilee was a good area for framing and craftmen. Builders were needed, and Joseph was a builder, so that is why the Holy Family moved to Nazareth; he could make a living here. Commerce was good because trade was possible with Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Syria, Jordan, etc.
Bassem, our guide, explained the meaning of the Jewish word, "kibbutz." It is a gathering; a community village wherein the residents get no salaries, but do get lodging, food, benefits, education for their children in exchange for working the land that is leased by the State. The early State of Israel set these up so that Jews would get tied to the land -- a form of socialism. There are more than 250 kibbutzes in Israel. Children are often sent there from other locations to be educated. Now, these places have museums, hospitals, etc. The income derived is reinvested. The kibbutzes are declining in number because the younger Jews are not interested in living in a socialist community.
On Friday, we traveled to Cana, the site of Jesus' first miracle. Driving through the town, I noticed that all the dwellings were three-storied, box-like, with flat roofs and no carports or garages, built very close to each other. The people who live here must all be apartment dwellers; there is no landscaping, flowers, or grass here. Twelve million people live in Galilee.
Our local guide gave us a little history about the area. Judea is surrounded by desert, but Galilee is surrounded by other nations: Lebanon, Syria, Jordan, and Egypt. Back in Jesus' time, the towns that seemed to be hotbeds of rebellion were controlled by garrisons of Roman soldiers. Loyal towns like Capernaum had Senate control and only a contingent of 50-60 soldiers led by a centurion.
Galilee was a good area for framing and craftmen. Builders were needed, and Joseph was a builder, so that is why the Holy Family moved to Nazareth; he could make a living here. Commerce was good because trade was possible with Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Syria, Jordan, etc.
Bassem, our guide, explained the meaning of the Jewish word, "kibbutz." It is a gathering; a community village wherein the residents get no salaries, but do get lodging, food, benefits, education for their children in exchange for working the land that is leased by the State. The early State of Israel set these up so that Jews would get tied to the land -- a form of socialism. There are more than 250 kibbutzes in Israel. Children are often sent there from other locations to be educated. Now, these places have museums, hospitals, etc. The income derived is reinvested. The kibbutzes are declining in number because the younger Jews are not interested in living in a socialist community.
Saturday, April 23, 2011
Our next stop on Thursday, March 24 was at Tabgha on the Sea where Jesus multiplied the loaves and fishes for the people. This story is told in four different gospels. The name 'Tabgha' comes from the Greek word 'Heptapegon' which means "Seven Springs." Seven springs were supposed to meet here before going into the sea.
The Church there is named the 'Church of the Multiplication.' The table rock in this church is thought to be the place where the extra loaves and fishes were piled up in baskets. It was venerated by Judeo-Christians as early as 28 AD. The first church built here was in the 4th century, and enlarged in 480. Some of the mosaic floor tiles are still visible. This church was destroyed in 614, was excavated in 1932, and rebuilt in 1982 by German Benedictines.
On the seashore is another church, the Church of St. Peter's Primacy. This is the location where Jesus cooked breakfast over a charcoal fire for a few apostles (including Peter and John) after His Resurrection. I have always found this Scripture so very moving, because I see Peter as an impetuous, spontaneous, emotional soul who, as soon as he recognized Jesus on the shore, jumped in the sea and swam to Him, not waiting for the boat to put to shore! Peter did not hang back because of his guilt (the denial of Christ) but rushed forward to His Master.
The apostles were despondent over the death of Jesus, but decided to go fishing at night just to be doing something. They had caught nothing all night. Jesus appeared on the shore, and asked them about what they had caught. He told them to try the other side of the boat, and when they did, they pulled up loads of fish! It was then that they recognized Jesus.
On the shore is a large bronze statue depicting the meeting of Peter and Jesus. Jesus asked him three times, "Do you love me?" This was to counter the three times Peter had denied Him. (Remember that Peter was warming his hands over a charcoal fire at the denial, and that Jesus had built a charcoal fire on the shore-- no coincidence here!) Then Jesus told him three times to "Feed my sheep." Peter was hereby given the task of guiding the early church as its leader. One half of the rock is still on the shore, the other half is in the church.
The Church there is named the 'Church of the Multiplication.' The table rock in this church is thought to be the place where the extra loaves and fishes were piled up in baskets. It was venerated by Judeo-Christians as early as 28 AD. The first church built here was in the 4th century, and enlarged in 480. Some of the mosaic floor tiles are still visible. This church was destroyed in 614, was excavated in 1932, and rebuilt in 1982 by German Benedictines.
On the seashore is another church, the Church of St. Peter's Primacy. This is the location where Jesus cooked breakfast over a charcoal fire for a few apostles (including Peter and John) after His Resurrection. I have always found this Scripture so very moving, because I see Peter as an impetuous, spontaneous, emotional soul who, as soon as he recognized Jesus on the shore, jumped in the sea and swam to Him, not waiting for the boat to put to shore! Peter did not hang back because of his guilt (the denial of Christ) but rushed forward to His Master.
The apostles were despondent over the death of Jesus, but decided to go fishing at night just to be doing something. They had caught nothing all night. Jesus appeared on the shore, and asked them about what they had caught. He told them to try the other side of the boat, and when they did, they pulled up loads of fish! It was then that they recognized Jesus.
On the shore is a large bronze statue depicting the meeting of Peter and Jesus. Jesus asked him three times, "Do you love me?" This was to counter the three times Peter had denied Him. (Remember that Peter was warming his hands over a charcoal fire at the denial, and that Jesus had built a charcoal fire on the shore-- no coincidence here!) Then Jesus told him three times to "Feed my sheep." Peter was hereby given the task of guiding the early church as its leader. One half of the rock is still on the shore, the other half is in the church.
Friday, April 22, 2011
The Jordan River
Next, we attended a healing service at the octagonal church built over the foundations of a Byzantine church covering the remains of what is thought to be the house of St. Peter. Mussolini built the church, and it is run by Franciscan nuns. We were prayed over by four priests individually or in couples. My husband and I prayed for spiritual and physical health and for our grandchildren. A glass cover in the church allowed us to see down into the the ruins of Peter's house. Most of these holy sites had churches built on top in order to reverence the sites.
The name 'Capernaum' comes from 'The Village of Nahum,' but no one remembers who he was! We also visited a synagogue that was built by the centurian whose daughter was healed by Jesus. This particular centurian was a peacemaker; a good man, and a friend of the Jews.
Following a lunch of "St. Peter's Fish" (fried talipia with French fries!) we went to the Jordan River. It was raining and cold -- the cold seemed to penetrate all the way into my bones! To make it worse, there were several groups of people waiting to be baptized in the Jordan River. They were wearing white robes, and were submerged one by one in the icy waters! We renewed our Baptismal vows standing on the shore, and dipped out some water from the Jordan River. The river is narrow at this point. It begins north of the Sea of Galilee, and runs into the Dead Sea, where it ends. The Jordan Valley is fertile where the river begins, but the land becomes more barren as the river travels southward. The experience at the Jordan River was deeply touching.
The name 'Capernaum' comes from 'The Village of Nahum,' but no one remembers who he was! We also visited a synagogue that was built by the centurian whose daughter was healed by Jesus. This particular centurian was a peacemaker; a good man, and a friend of the Jews.
Following a lunch of "St. Peter's Fish" (fried talipia with French fries!) we went to the Jordan River. It was raining and cold -- the cold seemed to penetrate all the way into my bones! To make it worse, there were several groups of people waiting to be baptized in the Jordan River. They were wearing white robes, and were submerged one by one in the icy waters! We renewed our Baptismal vows standing on the shore, and dipped out some water from the Jordan River. The river is narrow at this point. It begins north of the Sea of Galilee, and runs into the Dead Sea, where it ends. The Jordan Valley is fertile where the river begins, but the land becomes more barren as the river travels southward. The experience at the Jordan River was deeply touching.
Thursday, April 21, 2011
Capernaum on the Sea of Galilee
In considering the many examples of Peter and the others fishing on the Sea of Galilee, we were reminded that the reason Peter sank after trying to walk in the water toward Jesus, was that HE TOOK HIS EYES OFF JESUS, AND GOT DISTRACTED! A lesson for all of us.
We visited the town of Capernaum after disembarking. It is one of the more than fifteen towns on the shores of the Sea of Galilee. Capernaum is the town where Jesus made His home. "And leaving Nazareth he came and dwelt in Capernaum, which is upon the sea coast, in the borders of Zabulon and Nephthalim." (Matthew 4:13) This is where Peter, Andrew, James, John, and Matthew (all fishermen) became His Apostles. Many of His miracles were performed in this town: casting out of spirits, bringing a dead child back to life, healing Peter's mother-in-law, curing the Centurion's servant.
People thronged to hear him speak here, but they did not always believe. Jesus cursed them at one point. "If the miracles that were performed in you had been performed in Sodom, it would have remained to this day. But I tell you that it will be more bearable for Sodom on the day of judgment than for you." (Matthew 11:23-24) Arabs destroyed the city in the 7th century.
Galilee was at one time devoid of Jews; the Assyrians had moved in aliens and deported the Jews after conquering the territory. But around the 2nd century BC, Jews came back. Galilee is an area of 1600 square miles. In the towns we passed, laundry was hanging out at most of the buildings. Evidently the people possessed no dryers! In all of the places we visited on the shores of Galilee, pilgrims burst out in spontaneous song-- sometimes in different languages, but the same melody!
The Golan Heights are visible from here -- these black basalt mountains were made by volcanic eruptions, and they are different from the mountains in Israel. The area was called Decapolis in Jesus' time, and it is where Jesus cast out the demons into the swine. Strange that people in this area were raising pork!
We visited the town of Capernaum after disembarking. It is one of the more than fifteen towns on the shores of the Sea of Galilee. Capernaum is the town where Jesus made His home. "And leaving Nazareth he came and dwelt in Capernaum, which is upon the sea coast, in the borders of Zabulon and Nephthalim." (Matthew 4:13) This is where Peter, Andrew, James, John, and Matthew (all fishermen) became His Apostles. Many of His miracles were performed in this town: casting out of spirits, bringing a dead child back to life, healing Peter's mother-in-law, curing the Centurion's servant.
People thronged to hear him speak here, but they did not always believe. Jesus cursed them at one point. "If the miracles that were performed in you had been performed in Sodom, it would have remained to this day. But I tell you that it will be more bearable for Sodom on the day of judgment than for you." (Matthew 11:23-24) Arabs destroyed the city in the 7th century.
Galilee was at one time devoid of Jews; the Assyrians had moved in aliens and deported the Jews after conquering the territory. But around the 2nd century BC, Jews came back. Galilee is an area of 1600 square miles. In the towns we passed, laundry was hanging out at most of the buildings. Evidently the people possessed no dryers! In all of the places we visited on the shores of Galilee, pilgrims burst out in spontaneous song-- sometimes in different languages, but the same melody!
The Golan Heights are visible from here -- these black basalt mountains were made by volcanic eruptions, and they are different from the mountains in Israel. The area was called Decapolis in Jesus' time, and it is where Jesus cast out the demons into the swine. Strange that people in this area were raising pork!
Wednesday, April 20, 2011
On the Sea of Galilee
Next morning, after a light breakfast of toast and fresh fruit, we went outside to the amphitheater on the Mount of Beatitudes to hear Mass. It started to pour down rain just as we moved into the amphitheater, which fortunately, was roofed! So moving! Father Eric gave a superb sermon on the beatitudes and how we must live them.
Then, we boarded the bus to go to the Sea of Galilee for a boat ride in a rain storm. Two boats were attached to each other, and our entire group was able to get into both of these. Halfway across the sea, a lot of wind came up. The crewmen had to separate the two boats as waves rocked us up and down. Chairs and people were slung to one side, and then down the other, but we were safe. Finally, we reached shore. What a marvelous, spiritual adventure it was! This was the second highlight of our trip (the first was the Garden of Gethsemane). The Sea of Gailiee is truly an AUTHENTIC site. Eighty-five percent of Jesus' ministry took place here and on the shores.
The Sea of Galilee is really a lake, not a sea, and it lies below sea level. It is heart shaped and is 17 x 21" wide and 120' deep. Also called the Genasaret Sea and the Lake of Tiberia, it is the source of drinking water in Galilee. Rain is consequently very important here. Water is pumped from here to the desert regions by huge pipes along the highways for irrigation. One wonders what will happen when the water level is too low to accommodate the area.
Twenty seven species of fish are found in this lake; some are not kosher. Only fish with scales can be eaten by Orthodox Jews. Catfish is not kosher. Tilapia is known as St. Peter's fish, and we were told this is what is on the luncheon menu!
Then, we boarded the bus to go to the Sea of Galilee for a boat ride in a rain storm. Two boats were attached to each other, and our entire group was able to get into both of these. Halfway across the sea, a lot of wind came up. The crewmen had to separate the two boats as waves rocked us up and down. Chairs and people were slung to one side, and then down the other, but we were safe. Finally, we reached shore. What a marvelous, spiritual adventure it was! This was the second highlight of our trip (the first was the Garden of Gethsemane). The Sea of Gailiee is truly an AUTHENTIC site. Eighty-five percent of Jesus' ministry took place here and on the shores.
The Sea of Galilee is really a lake, not a sea, and it lies below sea level. It is heart shaped and is 17 x 21" wide and 120' deep. Also called the Genasaret Sea and the Lake of Tiberia, it is the source of drinking water in Galilee. Rain is consequently very important here. Water is pumped from here to the desert regions by huge pipes along the highways for irrigation. One wonders what will happen when the water level is too low to accommodate the area.
Twenty seven species of fish are found in this lake; some are not kosher. Only fish with scales can be eaten by Orthodox Jews. Catfish is not kosher. Tilapia is known as St. Peter's fish, and we were told this is what is on the luncheon menu!
Tuesday, April 19, 2011
Galilee was home to large populations of pagans and gentiles during Jesus' time, which is why the inhabitants were more open to His preaching. He chose five apostles from Bethseda. Both Greek and Aramaic were spoken here. It was a place of a more worldly view in comparison to the Judean area. After His Resurrection, the disciples were told to make disciples of all nations, so salvation of all began here.
Nazareth was where Jesus grew up. He was rejected there by those who knew him. This afternoon, we traveled to Nazareth where we had Mass at the Basilica of the Annunciation. It's the biggest church in the Middle East with two floors. The first floor is very simple with no ornamentation to fit the modesty of the Blessed Virgin. The upper floor however, is rich in mosaics and decorations to illustrate her glory. This site is thought to be the site where the Annunciation occurred. It is the fifth church built on this site. The remains of the first church were discovered in 1955; second church was built in the Byzantine era, and the third church was built by the Crusaders. The fourth was constructed in 1877.
St. Joseph's Church opposite the Basilica was built over St. Joseph's workshop and the home of the Holy Family, according to tradition. Tools of a carpenter were discovered in the grotto underneath.
After visiting both holy sites, we traveled to the Mount of the Beatitudes where the Sermon on the Mount was given. We checked into the Mount of Beatitudes: a guest house run by Franciscan sisters. It is one of the most beautiful sites I have ever seen -- the gardens were so well kept with roses, hawthorne, pansies, bouganvilla enticing one to roam and meditate for hours. Dinner consisted of chicken, soup, salads, and relishes. Dates were our desserts.
Nazareth was where Jesus grew up. He was rejected there by those who knew him. This afternoon, we traveled to Nazareth where we had Mass at the Basilica of the Annunciation. It's the biggest church in the Middle East with two floors. The first floor is very simple with no ornamentation to fit the modesty of the Blessed Virgin. The upper floor however, is rich in mosaics and decorations to illustrate her glory. This site is thought to be the site where the Annunciation occurred. It is the fifth church built on this site. The remains of the first church were discovered in 1955; second church was built in the Byzantine era, and the third church was built by the Crusaders. The fourth was constructed in 1877.
St. Joseph's Church opposite the Basilica was built over St. Joseph's workshop and the home of the Holy Family, according to tradition. Tools of a carpenter were discovered in the grotto underneath.
After visiting both holy sites, we traveled to the Mount of the Beatitudes where the Sermon on the Mount was given. We checked into the Mount of Beatitudes: a guest house run by Franciscan sisters. It is one of the most beautiful sites I have ever seen -- the gardens were so well kept with roses, hawthorne, pansies, bouganvilla enticing one to roam and meditate for hours. Dinner consisted of chicken, soup, salads, and relishes. Dates were our desserts.
Monday, April 18, 2011
Jericho and the Mount of Temptations
After lunch, we traveled to Jericho -- the oldest city in the world. It is 800 feet below sea level. Important archeological digs have occurred here discovering several layers of rebuilt cities. It was around 1250 B.C. that Joshua encircled the town seven times bearing the Ark of the Covenant - the first place conquered by the Hebrews. Herod the Great built a winter palace here sometime in the 1st century B.C. The Crusaders built a castle here in the Middle Ages.
Jericho is not the city it once was. It lies in the Palestinian jurisdiction with a population of 25,000, mostly Muslim. Summer heat gets to 110 degrees, but the winters are pleasant. We stopped to see the sycamore tree that Zaccheus climbed to get a view of Jesus. Vendors were ready at the spot with fresh fruit, souvenirs, religious articles.
We ate lunch at a restaurant on the Mount of Temptations where Jesus was tempted by the Devil during his forty days of preparation. A Greek monastery called Quruntul Monastery is built into the side of the mountain. We then left for Nazareth, the boyhood home of Jesus.
On the way, we were stopped at an Israeli checkpoint. We had heard that there had been a bombing in Jerusalem the day before, and one was killed and about 20 people wounded. The soldiers (one was a young girl) boarded the bus and checked passports of our guides, and required a random search of the luggage and persons of two on the bus. Two men were selected; one of whom was sick at the time. The luggage was removed, and the two men taken into the guard house. After about 20 minutes, they were allowed to return to the bus with their luggage, and we left. Neither of the other two buses were stopped in this manner. We understood that our local guide, Bassem, had a Bethlehem ID; the others had Jerusalem IDs. This is why we were stopped. A few tense moments here.
Jericho is not the city it once was. It lies in the Palestinian jurisdiction with a population of 25,000, mostly Muslim. Summer heat gets to 110 degrees, but the winters are pleasant. We stopped to see the sycamore tree that Zaccheus climbed to get a view of Jesus. Vendors were ready at the spot with fresh fruit, souvenirs, religious articles.
We ate lunch at a restaurant on the Mount of Temptations where Jesus was tempted by the Devil during his forty days of preparation. A Greek monastery called Quruntul Monastery is built into the side of the mountain. We then left for Nazareth, the boyhood home of Jesus.
On the way, we were stopped at an Israeli checkpoint. We had heard that there had been a bombing in Jerusalem the day before, and one was killed and about 20 people wounded. The soldiers (one was a young girl) boarded the bus and checked passports of our guides, and required a random search of the luggage and persons of two on the bus. Two men were selected; one of whom was sick at the time. The luggage was removed, and the two men taken into the guard house. After about 20 minutes, they were allowed to return to the bus with their luggage, and we left. Neither of the other two buses were stopped in this manner. We understood that our local guide, Bassem, had a Bethlehem ID; the others had Jerusalem IDs. This is why we were stopped. A few tense moments here.
Sunday, April 17, 2011
The Dead Sea and the Judean Desert
Wednesday morning, we left the hotel after breakfast, and traveled through the Judean desert to Jerico and the Dead Sea. There wasn't as much walking today, so we were able to rest some on the bus trip. The Dead Sea is much bigger than I thought-- and muddier and oilier. The salt content is 33%, and includes magnesium, sodium, calcium, potassium chloride, and magnesium bromide. These chemicals are refined and processed and used for both industrial and agricultural purposes. Evidently, the mud is a key ingredient in skin creams and soaps as well, since some of the others went head to heels in that mud -- spread it all over them. Lyle and I only waded a bit. The Dead Sea is the lowest point in the world. It is 1290 feet below sea level, is 48 miles in length, and 11 miles across. It is much the same as it was in the days of Jesus, but the water line has decreased due to over-exploitation. It is not a sea at all, but a lake. The scenery was beautiful, not at all what one would expect from the name: The Dead Sea. As we passed through the Judean desert, our local guide told us that early monasticism developed here. The monasteries were destroyed in 480 AD by the Persians and thousands of monks were killed. It is not a desert of sand, but of rocks. Rain falls here, but cannot be absorbed because of the rocks, and nothing takes root here. John the Baptist started his ministry here. Encampments along the way recall the Beduin tribes -- nomads who moved from place to place herding sheep on the mountains, but unable to find other resources. Luke's gospel related the story of the Samaritan who was robbed and almost murdered in this area. The desert is desolate and anyone traveling here in those days could easily have been robbed and killed by desert marauders. The Hebrews wandered forty years in this desert, not because they were lost, but because God wanted them to be dependent on Him, and to cleanse them of their ways. The Twelve Commandments were given to Moses in this desert. When the Hebrews complained for food, God furnished manna for them each day until they reached Canaan.
Saturday, April 16, 2011
The house of Caiaphus
We walked to the parapet on Mt. Zion overlooking the city. We could see Bethlehem and the Separation Wall in the distance. Then we entered the Church of St. Peter Gallicantu (the cockcrow) where Peter denied Jesus three times. Mosaics on all the walls depict this event. In one, Jesus was looking at Peter with compassion as they stripped him.
This church has three floors -- the first is the church; the other floors were excavated in 1897 and a prison was discovered here. This site is thought to be the location of Caiaphus' house. On the second floor is a cave made for scourging. Holes in the wall signified where the victim's hands were chained. His feet were spread apart on the floor while he was being whipped. Non-Biblical sources based on tradition relate that Jesus was scourged here by Caiaphus' soldiers as well as by the Romans. The Jews had no right to execute prisoners; they could only punish for blasphemy, adultery, etc. When Jesus claimed to be the son of God and predicted destruction, that was enough for the charge of blasphemy.
The bottom floor is a dungeon -- only a dark pit where Jesus was lowered by ropes through a small hole in the ceiling. He was held here all Thursday night before being sent before Pilate. Our Lord suffered even more than was told in the New Testament!
This area is an archeological site with ruins. Steps that have been dated around 100 AD must have been trod by Jesus as he left the Cenacle and went to the Garden of Gethsemane.
The apostles abandoned Jesus for fear of their lives: if He was accused of sedition, they would be seen as co-conspirators. Those who fled were later martyred. John, who stayed at the cross, died a natural death.
This church has three floors -- the first is the church; the other floors were excavated in 1897 and a prison was discovered here. This site is thought to be the location of Caiaphus' house. On the second floor is a cave made for scourging. Holes in the wall signified where the victim's hands were chained. His feet were spread apart on the floor while he was being whipped. Non-Biblical sources based on tradition relate that Jesus was scourged here by Caiaphus' soldiers as well as by the Romans. The Jews had no right to execute prisoners; they could only punish for blasphemy, adultery, etc. When Jesus claimed to be the son of God and predicted destruction, that was enough for the charge of blasphemy.
The bottom floor is a dungeon -- only a dark pit where Jesus was lowered by ropes through a small hole in the ceiling. He was held here all Thursday night before being sent before Pilate. Our Lord suffered even more than was told in the New Testament!
This area is an archeological site with ruins. Steps that have been dated around 100 AD must have been trod by Jesus as he left the Cenacle and went to the Garden of Gethsemane.
The apostles abandoned Jesus for fear of their lives: if He was accused of sedition, they would be seen as co-conspirators. Those who fled were later martyred. John, who stayed at the cross, died a natural death.
Friday, April 15, 2011
The Cenacle
After leaving the Tomb of Christ, we heard Mass in the Blessed Sacrament Chapel in the Basilica. Then we went to meet the Archbishop of the Latin Patriarch of Jerusalem in the cathedral. Both churches we visited this morning had mosaics depicting Christ's life, His suffering, and that of the saints. The Patriachate of Jerusalem covers four areas: Israel, the Palestinian Authority, Jordan and Cyprus. In January of this year, representatives of all groups met to confer. As of now, the groups are building an eighty house settlement for Christians to help persuade Christians to remain in the Holy Land. There are now only about 70,000 Catholics in all four states. I have to admit, I was close to dozing off during the speech! Our three groups took turns eating at a small restaurant. We were in the last group. In the meantime, we shopped at an area in the Old City. I wanted to buy some earrings, but they were $65. half-price! Lyle and I bought a few gifts to take back home. Lunch was wonderful! We had falafel -- chick peas ground up with lots of veggies and fried with a coating in a pita pocket. I want the recipe! After lunch, we got back on the bus and went to Mt. Zion where we toured the Church of the Dormition commemorating the "falling asleep" of the Virgin Mary was then assumed up into Heaven by Jesus' power. Since Lyle was tiring out, he stayed on the bus while I went with the group down hill to the Cenacle (upper room) where Jesus held His Last Supper. This place was the site of the first Eucharist, the establishment of the priesthood, and the descent of the Holy Spirit. The church in this spot was built in the 4th century but destroyed by the Persians, rebuilt by the Crusaders, and then turned into a mosque by the Muslims. The Franciscans rebuilt it in 1967. No Masses are allowed here. It is relevant to note that the earliest form of Christianity began in this room.
Thursday, April 14, 2011
The Via Dolorosa
Wake-up call on Tuesday, March 22 was at 3:30 AM! We were to walk the Via Dolorosa and say the Stations of the Cross before dawn because of the vendors that lined the streets in the day time. We ate a continental breakfast and were on the bus by 4 AM. It was dark and chilly. We went immediately to the Via Dolorosa to follow the Way of the Cross. We had to use our flashlights to see and to read the daily readings. Each person in our group helped carry the cross at one time or another. It was not the big, heavy cross that Jesus must have borne, but we got the message anyway! It was black dark for a while and at least thirty stray cats were foraging for food in the garbage lying about. We stopped and prayed at each station along the way. We ended up at the Basilica of the Holy Sepulcher. It is huge and divided into sections for each religion: Roman Catholic, Greek Orthodox, Armenian, and Latin Catholic. We viewed the pillar where Christ was scourged, the flat stone bed where He was annointed and wrapped in linen after having been taken down from the cross. We also saw His empty tomb and where St. Helen found the true cross. The Tomb was very impressive. It was in the center of the Basilica and seemed to be a separate monument. Greek priest and monks in black robes and hats had Mass in their section. Two richly garbed attendants swung incense bearers as the priests entered and departed the altar reserved for them. We stood in line waiting to see the tomb for at least thirty minutes.
Wednesday, April 13, 2011
The Garden of Gethsemane
On the slopes of the Mount of Olives is the church of Dominus Flevit -- the place where Jesus wept over the forthcoming destruction of Jerusalem (Luke 19:41-44). The dome of the church is in the shape of a teardrop and small tear-drop shaped decorations are all around. From the spot we stood, we could see a view of the Old City and the gold-topped onion-domed Church of Mary Magdalene of Russian Orthodoxy. We also saw a view of the Jewish cemetery -- monuments stretch for miles and miles outside the walls of Jerusalem. Also visible was the site of the Last Supper (the Upper Room), the house of Caiphas where Jesus was taken after his arrest in the Garden of Gethsemane, and the "Rooster Crows" church where Peter denied Jesus three times. All this was inside the city walls in Jesus' time, but not today.
The view of Jerusalem was as if we were standing on the top of the world, and Jerusalem was its center. It is no wonder that Jesus cried over Jerusalem. I was close to tears myself.
At the base of the Mount of Olives lies the Kidron Valley and the Garden of Gethsemane. We walked down to the Garden. What a beautiful place is the Garden of Gethsemane where the Agony in the Garden took place and where Jesus was betrayed by Judas. We spent close to three hours in this beloved place -- had a box lunch, time to meditate and pray, and go to Confession with one of the four priests on our trip. I realized that Jesus really lived, and really died and really rose from the dead. My faith was restored and strengthened by the quiet time I had in the Garden of Gethsemane. I felt "born again."
After this, we attended Mass at the Basilica of the Agony, saw the Grotto of Betrayal, and prayed at the vacant tomb of the Virgin Mary. Controversy exists over the location of her death and assumption; some think it was in Ephesus and some think it was in Jerusalem. Then we went back to the hotel for dinner, preparation for tomorrow's event, and sleep.
The view of Jerusalem was as if we were standing on the top of the world, and Jerusalem was its center. It is no wonder that Jesus cried over Jerusalem. I was close to tears myself.
At the base of the Mount of Olives lies the Kidron Valley and the Garden of Gethsemane. We walked down to the Garden. What a beautiful place is the Garden of Gethsemane where the Agony in the Garden took place and where Jesus was betrayed by Judas. We spent close to three hours in this beloved place -- had a box lunch, time to meditate and pray, and go to Confession with one of the four priests on our trip. I realized that Jesus really lived, and really died and really rose from the dead. My faith was restored and strengthened by the quiet time I had in the Garden of Gethsemane. I felt "born again."
After this, we attended Mass at the Basilica of the Agony, saw the Grotto of Betrayal, and prayed at the vacant tomb of the Virgin Mary. Controversy exists over the location of her death and assumption; some think it was in Ephesus and some think it was in Jerusalem. Then we went back to the hotel for dinner, preparation for tomorrow's event, and sleep.
Tuesday, April 12, 2011
The Mount of Olives
On Monday morning, we traveled to the Mount of Olives -- this was a very important area to Jesus since he went there often "as was his custom" to pray and meditate -- to "recharge his batteries" so to speak. The Mount is in an Arab territory controlled by the Israelis; we were told to watch our belongings! The Mount of Olives is actually seven ridges, not a separate mountain. We went first to the Mosque of the Ascension; the place where Jesus went up to Heaven after the Resurrection. A very small structure, it was built by the Byzantines in the 4th century as an octagonal structure, completely open at the top with an opening in each of the eight sections. When the Muslims took it over in the 13th century, they made it into a mosque; added a dome, a minaret, and sealed off the arches. There is only one small entry now. Inside is an impression said to be that of Jesus' foot. The next stop was the Church of Pater Noster, where in a grotto there Jesus taught the Our Father to His disciples. We said the Our Father in the grotto in English, and heard others in our group say it in Filipino and in Spanish. The church was originally built in the fourth century by St. Helena, who is said to have found the True Cross. This is a French property founded in the 19th century by a Carmelite nun whose tomb is inside the church. The courtyard and church is lined with ceramic tiles printed with the Our Father in more than sixty languages, including Braille. The readings for this area were of the teaching of the Lord's Prayer, and we were reminded that we must trust God for our daily bread, and be prepared for the final test. As we left this area, our guide pointed out a Crown of Thorns tree. This was the tree from which the crown of thorns were made. The thorns were at least three inches long and were sharp and strong.
Monday, April 11, 2011
If anyone is interested in the archeological discoveries in the Holy Land, there is an interesting article in the April Smithsonian Magazine. In 1999, Muslims used bulldozers to dig a pit on the Temple Mount and cart away tons of soil and debris to the Mount of Olives. Archeologists are now sifting through this debris and have found artifacts dating back to the time of Solomon.
The Dome of the Rock is important to three religions, since the 'Foundation Stone' on which it is built is believed by the Hebrews to have been the place where Adam was created and where Abraham intended to sacrifice his son Isaac. It is also the place where Jesus announced the fulfillment of the prophecies in the Old Testament and where he threw out the money-changers. Muslims believe this is the place where the Prophet Muhammed was taken up to heaven.
After lunch at the Christmas Hotel, we visited the Ecce Homo Arch, where Jesus was displayed to the Jews after His scourging. Then we went to the Chapel of Flagellation where the scourging of Jesus is commemorated and on to the Lithostrotos (the Place of the Pavement) at the Convent of the sisters of Zion. The heavy stones on the pavement tell the story of the sadistic "games" the Roman soldiers played with their captives -- including Jesus of Nazareth. This is where he was mocked, crowned with thorns, stripped of his clothing, and spit upon (Matthew 27:27-31).
Later this same day, we traveled to Judah to Ein Kerem in the hill country where John the Baptist was born. This is also where the Church of the Visitation is located -- where the Virgin Mary visited her cousin Elizabeth and the baby John "jumped in her womb." Lyle and I didn't ascend the 100 steep steps to the Church of the Visitation; my back was hurt from my fall, and Lyle has two bad knees! Instead, we waited at the John the Baptist Church for the others. Mass was held here at 4 PM. All around the courtyard of this beautiful church are big panels of Zachariah's Canticle written in many different languages.
Dinner at the Grand Court Hotel in Jerusalem was very nice -- a huge buffet with outlandish dessert tables -- we were eating too much! This is a very upscale hotel in comparison to the one in Bethlehem.
The Dome of the Rock is important to three religions, since the 'Foundation Stone' on which it is built is believed by the Hebrews to have been the place where Adam was created and where Abraham intended to sacrifice his son Isaac. It is also the place where Jesus announced the fulfillment of the prophecies in the Old Testament and where he threw out the money-changers. Muslims believe this is the place where the Prophet Muhammed was taken up to heaven.
After lunch at the Christmas Hotel, we visited the Ecce Homo Arch, where Jesus was displayed to the Jews after His scourging. Then we went to the Chapel of Flagellation where the scourging of Jesus is commemorated and on to the Lithostrotos (the Place of the Pavement) at the Convent of the sisters of Zion. The heavy stones on the pavement tell the story of the sadistic "games" the Roman soldiers played with their captives -- including Jesus of Nazareth. This is where he was mocked, crowned with thorns, stripped of his clothing, and spit upon (Matthew 27:27-31).
Later this same day, we traveled to Judah to Ein Kerem in the hill country where John the Baptist was born. This is also where the Church of the Visitation is located -- where the Virgin Mary visited her cousin Elizabeth and the baby John "jumped in her womb." Lyle and I didn't ascend the 100 steep steps to the Church of the Visitation; my back was hurt from my fall, and Lyle has two bad knees! Instead, we waited at the John the Baptist Church for the others. Mass was held here at 4 PM. All around the courtyard of this beautiful church are big panels of Zachariah's Canticle written in many different languages.
Dinner at the Grand Court Hotel in Jerusalem was very nice -- a huge buffet with outlandish dessert tables -- we were eating too much! This is a very upscale hotel in comparison to the one in Bethlehem.
Sunday, April 10, 2011
Solomon's temple
Our local guide Sam told us that the original temple built by Solomon was on the sit of the Dome of the Rock. Solomon's temple fell with the Babylonian conquest foretold by Jeremiah. The Israelites were exiled to Babylonia, but returned in 538 BC. Alexander the Great conquered the area in 332 BC, and the Maccabean rebellion was in 167. The Romans took over the area in 63 BC, but then Herod the Great reconstructed the temple. That was the temple in which Jesus spoke. Jesus predicted the destruction of the temple which occured in 70 AD. All the geneological and other records were destroyed in that fire, and the Hebrews no longer had the center of their religion -- no Holy of Holies, no sacrificial sites, nothing. When Jesus died, the veil of the temple was torn into -- the one covering the tabernacle (Holy of Holies) which contained the Ark of the Covenant. Only the high priest could enter the Holy of Holies, once per year on the feast of Purim. The rending of the veil signified that ALL could now come to God -- Jesus was the new Ark of the Covenant. After leaving the Temple Mount, we went to the pools of Bethesda where Jesus healed the paralytic. This is located near St. Stephen's gate and in the courtyard of the church of St. Anne (the traditional site of Mary's birthplace). Excavations in 1871 uncovered these pools that were used as a rain catchment during Herod's reign. The man healed of his paralysis was evidently not healed in his soul, because he turned Jesus in to the officials for healing on the Sabbath!
Saturday, April 9, 2011
The Temple Mount
Jerusalem is a beautiful place, especially inside the city. The buildings are rectangular with minarets popping up now and then, domes are either brown in color or covered with gold. Many levels of hills and mountains undulate across the landscape in the distance, dotted with tall, spindly evergreens and gnarled olive trees. Stones and boulders pop out of the ground and remind one of new-born lambs trying to get up and walk. I fell in love with Jerusalem and the surrounding areas!
We entered the Old City by the Dung Gate (guess you can imagine why it was called that!) The Old City walls were built by the Turkish sultan Suleiman in 1542. The Crusaders had rebuilt some of the city on the old Roman foundations. Numerous excavations have discovered constructions dating all the way back to the time of Solomon. There are seven gates in the wall: Jaffa Gate, Zion Gate, Damascus Gate, St. Stephen's gate, the Dung Gate, the New Gate, and the Golden Gate (it's not really gold -- it was a mistranslation!) The Golden Gate is closed; it's the gate through which the Messiah is supposed to come according to Jewish belief.
We went first to the Church of St. Anne to visit the birthplace of the Blessed Virgin Mary: Mary, full of grace, was sinless because of her Immaculate Conception. The acoustics are great here! Then we walked up to the Temple Mount to see the Dome of the Mount and the Al Aqsa Mosque, sacred to the Muslims. This is their third most holy site. The King of Saudi Arabia (now dead) paid for the gold to be inlaid on the dome. The temple is completely covered with gorgeous mosaics and inscriptions. We were not allowed to enter.
We passed the Western Wall, where devout pilgrims place their prayers in the cracks. The Western Wall was built by Herod in 20 BC, and is a retaining wall of the Old Temple. Later on, our pilgrims were able to pray at this "Wailing Wall."
We entered the Old City by the Dung Gate (guess you can imagine why it was called that!) The Old City walls were built by the Turkish sultan Suleiman in 1542. The Crusaders had rebuilt some of the city on the old Roman foundations. Numerous excavations have discovered constructions dating all the way back to the time of Solomon. There are seven gates in the wall: Jaffa Gate, Zion Gate, Damascus Gate, St. Stephen's gate, the Dung Gate, the New Gate, and the Golden Gate (it's not really gold -- it was a mistranslation!) The Golden Gate is closed; it's the gate through which the Messiah is supposed to come according to Jewish belief.
We went first to the Church of St. Anne to visit the birthplace of the Blessed Virgin Mary: Mary, full of grace, was sinless because of her Immaculate Conception. The acoustics are great here! Then we walked up to the Temple Mount to see the Dome of the Mount and the Al Aqsa Mosque, sacred to the Muslims. This is their third most holy site. The King of Saudi Arabia (now dead) paid for the gold to be inlaid on the dome. The temple is completely covered with gorgeous mosaics and inscriptions. We were not allowed to enter.
We passed the Western Wall, where devout pilgrims place their prayers in the cracks. The Western Wall was built by Herod in 20 BC, and is a retaining wall of the Old Temple. Later on, our pilgrims were able to pray at this "Wailing Wall."
Friday, April 8, 2011
To the Old City
After a typical Bethlehem breakfast, we checked out of the Paradise Hotel and got on the bus for our journey to Jerusalem. On the way, our guide Sam gave us some information about the Jewish people. He pointed out that the settlements on the hills as we passed could be noted as either Jewish or Arabic by the way they were built: Jewish settlements were organized, had red roofs, and were identical in every way. Arabic settlements were more organic, disorganized, and seemed to just grow out of the hills. He also said that there were three kinds of Orthodox Jews in Israel: The Haredi Jews are the most extreme, practicing every aspect of the law, and were always dressed in black suits and hats. They had mustaches as well (the men; he didn't explain how the women were dressed!) These Jews came from Eastern Europe. The Hasidic Jews are descendents of the Pharisees, and always sport a beard. The other kind are called Conservative. The little skull cap that they wear on their heads is called a 'kita" and if these are white, they are Conservative Jews, and if they are black they are Orthodox Jews.
Sam also noted that a lot of Jews aren't religious, and the Jewish state is secular, not religious in nature. I am interested in finding out a lot more about the Jewish religion and its different sects.
We were told not to bring Bibles, rosaries, or wear cross jewelry as we entered the Old City. We waited a while in line to go through security. One of our group didn't know this, and his Bible was confiscated by the security police. The women were told to have their shoulders and knees covered. Two of our ladies were sent to get shawls to cover their bare arms! Everywhere, we saw young, uniformed Israelis with huge, automatic rifles. It was a little scary.
The city of Jerusalem is surrounded by a huge wall, and it is divided into a Christian quarter, an Armenian Quarter, a Moslem Quarter, and the Jewish Quarter. More on this tomorrow.
Sam also noted that a lot of Jews aren't religious, and the Jewish state is secular, not religious in nature. I am interested in finding out a lot more about the Jewish religion and its different sects.
We were told not to bring Bibles, rosaries, or wear cross jewelry as we entered the Old City. We waited a while in line to go through security. One of our group didn't know this, and his Bible was confiscated by the security police. The women were told to have their shoulders and knees covered. Two of our ladies were sent to get shawls to cover their bare arms! Everywhere, we saw young, uniformed Israelis with huge, automatic rifles. It was a little scary.
The city of Jerusalem is surrounded by a huge wall, and it is divided into a Christian quarter, an Armenian Quarter, a Moslem Quarter, and the Jewish Quarter. More on this tomorrow.
Thursday, April 7, 2011
Cultural experiences in Bethlehem
We had time in the afternoon to shop in the Good Shepherd Store right across the street from our hotel. This was a recommended site -- "proven to be reliable, having fair prices and quality goods." They specialize in olive wood products, mother of pearl, and Jerusalem Cross necklaces. The Jerusalem cross, also known as the "Crusader's Cross" has several interpretations, but the one I like the best is this: the large red cross in the center represents Jerusalem, the center of the earth, and the four smaller crosses surrounding it represent the spread of Christianity to the four corners of the world: east, west, north, and south. I bought several of these pins and necklaces on the pilgrimage.
On the bus again, we traveled to view the countryside, and stopped to take pictures of an artificial mountain that contains a fortress inside. It was built by Hadrian. Herod the Great's tomb is said to be inside. This Herod is the one who murdered the Holy Innocents. He was not a full fledged Jew, but he became the King of the Jews from about 40 -4 BCE. He banished his wife and his legitimate son, and killed his favorite concubine and his three sons because he thought they were transpiring against him.
I got off the bus to take pictures, and slid on some rocks down the hill. Bruised my knee and twisted my back a bit, but otherwise unhurt. The worst thing was that I broke my camera in the fall and was unable to take any more pictures with it!
That evening, we met with students from Bethlehem University. The students are 65% Muslim and 35% Christian, and they learn about each other's religion. The university is run by the Christian Brothers. One student sat at each table at dinner that night, so that we could learn about her life, her aspirations, her studies. The young woman who sat with us was named Layla, and she was eighteen. She was a lot like some teenagers anywhere; articulate, intelligent, and charming. She was even keen on texting!
On the bus again, we traveled to view the countryside, and stopped to take pictures of an artificial mountain that contains a fortress inside. It was built by Hadrian. Herod the Great's tomb is said to be inside. This Herod is the one who murdered the Holy Innocents. He was not a full fledged Jew, but he became the King of the Jews from about 40 -4 BCE. He banished his wife and his legitimate son, and killed his favorite concubine and his three sons because he thought they were transpiring against him.
I got off the bus to take pictures, and slid on some rocks down the hill. Bruised my knee and twisted my back a bit, but otherwise unhurt. The worst thing was that I broke my camera in the fall and was unable to take any more pictures with it!
That evening, we met with students from Bethlehem University. The students are 65% Muslim and 35% Christian, and they learn about each other's religion. The university is run by the Christian Brothers. One student sat at each table at dinner that night, so that we could learn about her life, her aspirations, her studies. The young woman who sat with us was named Layla, and she was eighteen. She was a lot like some teenagers anywhere; articulate, intelligent, and charming. She was even keen on texting!
Wednesday, April 6, 2011
Holy Sites in Bethlehem
St. Catherine of Alexandria Church, where we had church on Saturday, is adjacent to the Basilica of the Nativity. It was the feast day of St. Joseph, but our liturgy today was that of Christmas Day. We sang, "O Come, All Ye Faithful," and "Joy to the World" among other Christmas hymns. This is a Roman Catholic church, but the other types of Catholics also worship here: Greek Orthodox and Armenian. They take turns worshipping in the cave each morning. Mosaics in this church were done during the Byzantine era.
We also visited the Milk Grotto where Mary was said to have nursed the baby Jesus. Her milk dripped down and bleached the stone white. Packets of white powder are sold there for those who are sick, or those who are infertile. When the powder is mixed with liquid and drunk, cures occur. It is said that there are lots of documentation about cures in this manner, but of course, it all depends on faith!
By bus, we went to Shepherd's Field in Beit Sahour (House of God) which is a beautiful park monument where the angels announced news of Jesus' birth. While there, our guide Sam gave us a marvelous explanation of the 23rd Psalm and what it meant to be a shepherd in those days. He showed us a cave which was a sheep fold in those days. Five shepherds could place 150-200 sheep in this at night, which afforded protection from marauders and wild animals. Sheep evidently have little or no intelligence, and have to rely on their shepherds for guidance and protection! (Like us!)
We also visited the Milk Grotto where Mary was said to have nursed the baby Jesus. Her milk dripped down and bleached the stone white. Packets of white powder are sold there for those who are sick, or those who are infertile. When the powder is mixed with liquid and drunk, cures occur. It is said that there are lots of documentation about cures in this manner, but of course, it all depends on faith!
By bus, we went to Shepherd's Field in Beit Sahour (House of God) which is a beautiful park monument where the angels announced news of Jesus' birth. While there, our guide Sam gave us a marvelous explanation of the 23rd Psalm and what it meant to be a shepherd in those days. He showed us a cave which was a sheep fold in those days. Five shepherds could place 150-200 sheep in this at night, which afforded protection from marauders and wild animals. Sheep evidently have little or no intelligence, and have to rely on their shepherds for guidance and protection! (Like us!)
Tuesday, April 5, 2011
Birthplace of Jesus
On the way to the Church of the Nativity on Saturday, March 19, we stopped for a view of the Separation Wall. This wall was built by the Israelis in order to "keep Israel pure" and protect Jerusalem from terrorists. Residents of Bethlehem, like our guide Sam, can only go to Jerusalem if they have a permit to work on some job that is needed by the Israelis, such as construction. It's only a 3-6 months permit and the workers have to go through security each time.
The wall itself is so heart-rending. tragic -- graffiti and signs are painted all along the 24 foot tall concrete walls we saw. The graffiti asks for an end to apartheid, quotes Reagan's words to "tear down this wall" referring to the Berlin wall, and peace symbols are everywhere. The wall is not finished in places, and when it is, it will be approximately 760 km.
The Church of the Nativity is built over the cave where Jesus was born. Tradition seems pretty sure about that, since the original church was built on top of the cave in the 4th century AD. It was built after Constantine made Christianity an approved religion, officially stopping the Roman persecutions. Original columns inside still exist, and the actual floor can be seen through a hole. The church was reconstructed in the 6th century by Justinian. The original opening was blocked by the Turks and replaced with a small opening so that camels and horses could not enter the Church. One has to bend over to walk through, symbolizing the reference for the location. The Church is shared by Armenians, Greek Orthodox, and Latin Catholics -- the three kinds of Catholics in the Holy Land. It seems that entrance to Bethlehem by tourists is only allowed if your denomination has a presence there. Lutherans also have a church here.
We descended to the grotto where the spot where Jesus was born is marked by a silver star. We touched, kissed, photographed this spot. The was also a niche where Jesus was placed in the manger after His birth. I can't express how emotional this visit was! The actual birthplace of Our Lord!
The wall itself is so heart-rending. tragic -- graffiti and signs are painted all along the 24 foot tall concrete walls we saw. The graffiti asks for an end to apartheid, quotes Reagan's words to "tear down this wall" referring to the Berlin wall, and peace symbols are everywhere. The wall is not finished in places, and when it is, it will be approximately 760 km.
The Church of the Nativity is built over the cave where Jesus was born. Tradition seems pretty sure about that, since the original church was built on top of the cave in the 4th century AD. It was built after Constantine made Christianity an approved religion, officially stopping the Roman persecutions. Original columns inside still exist, and the actual floor can be seen through a hole. The church was reconstructed in the 6th century by Justinian. The original opening was blocked by the Turks and replaced with a small opening so that camels and horses could not enter the Church. One has to bend over to walk through, symbolizing the reference for the location. The Church is shared by Armenians, Greek Orthodox, and Latin Catholics -- the three kinds of Catholics in the Holy Land. It seems that entrance to Bethlehem by tourists is only allowed if your denomination has a presence there. Lutherans also have a church here.
We descended to the grotto where the spot where Jesus was born is marked by a silver star. We touched, kissed, photographed this spot. The was also a niche where Jesus was placed in the manger after His birth. I can't express how emotional this visit was! The actual birthplace of Our Lord!
Monday, April 4, 2011
Full day in Bethlehem - the birthplace of Jesus
Breakfast consisted of boiled eggs, thin slices of toast, red and green peppers, small cakes, yogurt with different toppings. We set out on the bus at 7:30 and met our local guide, Bassem, for the first time. Bassem lives in Bethlehem, so I surmised he was a Palestinian Christian. In ancient times, Bethlehem was called "the least of Judah." The name, "Bethlehem," means "house of bread" in Hebrew. At the time of Jesus' birth, it was a small village on top a mountain, and the population was only about one thousand; now it tops 60,000. The city has more Christians here than other areas in the West Bank. Bassem (he said to call him "Sam") said that ten years ago the area was 75% Christian, now it's 32% The Holy Land itself is home to Jews, Christians, and Muslims. Christians are caught in the middle between the Jews and the Muslims and many have left the area. Christians also have less children than the Muslims, so the number of Christians in the Holy Land is decreasing. In 1948, Christians numbered close to 18% of the total population in the West Bank and Gaza, now they are less than 2%. The Christians are a double minority. One Catholic priest has said, "We are rejected by the Israeli Jewish people and the government because we are Arabs, and we are rejected by the Palestinian Muslim people because we are Christian." A major discovery I made on this trip is that somehow, we need to stop the exodus of Christians from the Holy Land, where Christianity began. This is one reason why I'm writing this blog. Not every Christian realizes this.
Sunday, April 3, 2011
In Bethlehem
We finally got to check in to our hotel, the Paradise Hotel in Bethlehem. Although we were told not to expect "luxurious," our room was clean, pleasant, with plenty of hot water. Dinner was an enormous selection of fish, hummus, pita breads, all kinds of relishes and veggies, mashed and boiled potatoes, fruit, chicken, yogurt, and I don't know what else! I had always heard that the Mediterranean diet was healthy for you with a lot of fruit and vegetables and little fat, but if I ate all this, I would soon gain several pounds! Dessert was a small banana and a baby pear.
There were 142 pilgrims on the trip -- it took three plane flights to get us all to the Holy Land, and three buses to tour. We were on the yellow bus; others were on either the blue bus or the green bus! Most of the pilgrims were from Arkansas, but there were people from Virginia, Minnesota, and even California. So many people required extensive coordination, so each bus had along with the driver, a local guide, a volunteer to keep us together, and one of the leaders who alternated between buses. Our volunteer was Dawn, and she did a great job! The leaders were Cackie Upchurch, Father Alex, Bishop Taylor, and sometimes Melea Hargett, the editor of the Arkansas Catholic.
Saturday, April 2, 2011
Bethlehem
Since we were so late in arriving, we didn't check in to our hotel, but went immediately to hear Mass at the Our Lady of Fatima Parish in Beit Sahour (Shepherd's Field). Along the way, we had our first glimpse of the town where Jesus was born. Since Bethlehem is under Palestinian control, we had to pass a check point. All the buildings are made of the same stone material -- all white or off white. Rocks are everywhere -- stones and boulders pop up out of the ground like so many marshmallows on hot chocolate! Slim, pencil-shaped evergreens line the road. I noticed that driving was on the right side of the highway, not the left side as with the British.
Beit Sahour, of course, is where the shepherds are said to have heard the news of the Messiah's birth from the angels. Colorful paintings of this event are in three sections surrounding the altar. As we were to find out throughout our celebrations of the Eucharist, Bishop Taylor, Father Eric, Father Vince, Deacon Joe Bruick, and Deacon Richard officiated.
Beit Sahour is the largest Christian town in the Holy Land, and this church is the largest Catholic parish in the region. Christians are in the majority here. The Franciscans own the land here, and the church was built in 1863.
As part of the mission of this church, a Latin High School accommodates some 400 students from around the area. The school is in need of musical instruments for their students, so after Mass, we pilgrims donated money and musical instruments to the pastors. Then we went across the courtyard to hear the Christian Young Students Group play marches with drums and bag pipes! What a wonderful beginning to our trip!
Beit Sahour, of course, is where the shepherds are said to have heard the news of the Messiah's birth from the angels. Colorful paintings of this event are in three sections surrounding the altar. As we were to find out throughout our celebrations of the Eucharist, Bishop Taylor, Father Eric, Father Vince, Deacon Joe Bruick, and Deacon Richard officiated.
Beit Sahour is the largest Christian town in the Holy Land, and this church is the largest Catholic parish in the region. Christians are in the majority here. The Franciscans own the land here, and the church was built in 1863.
As part of the mission of this church, a Latin High School accommodates some 400 students from around the area. The school is in need of musical instruments for their students, so after Mass, we pilgrims donated money and musical instruments to the pastors. Then we went across the courtyard to hear the Christian Young Students Group play marches with drums and bag pipes! What a wonderful beginning to our trip!
Friday, April 1, 2011
Air travel to the Holy Land
Our plane was scheduled to leave at 10: AM on March 17 (Thursday), so we got to the airport about 7:30 and met Father Alex, who gave us our yellow hats, name tags, and Pilgrim Packets. I volunteered to carry the "prayer sack" containing prayer petitions, to be set in front of each altar where we heard Mass. The first leg of the trip was to Atlanta; the second was to JFK in New York. No problem here, but when we got to New York, Father Alex wanted us to attend mass in the chapel at JFK. We had to change terminals, which meant walking and walking, and going through security twice. Because of Lyle's total knee replacement, he was patted down twice. After all that, we had little time to grab a bite before boarding the plane for Tel Aviv. However, we hit a snag here. We were supposed to board at 9:00 PM. Instead, because of an electrical failure on the Delta flight, we waited in line for 1 1/2 hours. When the repairs were supposedly fixed, we had to go through security again -- another pat-down plus an X-ray for Lyle. After boarding the plane, we waited for the plane to taxi out, but found that the problem wasn't fixed, and we had to go back again to the gate! We finally got off the ground around 11 PM. I was able to sleep just a bit on the 11 hour flight. We got in around 4 PM -- three hours later than scheduled. We set our watches seven hours ahead to match Tel Aviv time. We happened to get in the wrong line at Passport Check and were the last to show up at the meeting place in the Tel Aviv airport. Then we got on the bus and left for Bethlehem!
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